A must-visit during a tourist stay in the Sierra de Guara, Alquezar can be discovered during a lazy day, or after the day's activities, at nightfall, which gives it even more mystery! Get ready to dive into history.
THE EVENTFUL HISTORY OF ALQUEZAR
AL CZAR, the Arab influence
A stronghold on a trade route, its location was chosen by the Visigoths to see enemies coming from afar and defend the kingdom of Toledo. In 711, an army of 7000 Arab horsemen landed in Spain, this building then fell into the hands of the Moors. The fortress was built in the 9th century by Jalaf Ibn El Rasid, caliph of Barbastro. He nicknamed it Al Czar, which means fortified castle. Then in 1067, the king of Aragon Sancho Ramirez regained control of the fortress, renaming it Alquezar.
Alquezar, the Christian
From the 11th century, there was a long period of Christianization. A church was also built inside the castle in the 16th century. Today it still contains a wooden altarpiece, sculptures of Christ, and paintings.
Below the Collegiate Church perched on the banks of the RIo Vero canyon, the houses are built around a central square: the Plaza Mayor. Until the middle of the 20th century, the inhabitants led a traditional peasant life based on agriculture (cereals, vines, almonds, olive trees) and breeding (particularly sheep).
“Se han marchado”
Between 1955 and 1965, under Franco’s repression, a slow rural exodus emptied the countryside of Sierra de Guara. This departure towards the cities is the result of several factors:
– the era of industrialization which offers work;
– soil impoverishment due to the felling of deciduous trees;
– the death of professions that structure life (carpenters, bakers, etc.).
Many young people leave villages like Alquezar to find work in the cities, particularly in large companies looking for workers. However, Alquezar resisted and never completely depopulated.
FROM 1950 TO THE PRESENT DAYS: THE TOURISM BOOM
As soon as Pierre Minvielle discovered Alquezar with his father in 1950, he immediately perceived an incredible strength to cross the different eras without clashes: “we felt in this village a customary disposition to be satisfied with the state of things, to refuse the movement”.
At that time, despite the proximity of the town of Barbastro, Alquezar still lived as in the Middle Ages. The village’s water is stored in the San Hypolyto reservoirs. At 6 p.m. each day, the valves are opened and the water then flows into the canals, flowing down the streets, filling the wash houses. In summer temperatures, the appearance of water in the village streets, already precious at that time, enlivens the village.
The reputation of canyoning in the Rio Vero is contagious and many adventure enthusiasts arrive in Alquezar and the Sierra de Guara. The village began its real estate transformation in the 1980s, fortunately respecting the style of traditional houses.
In 1998, the rock paintings in the caves bordering the upper basin of the Rio Vero, of Levantine and schematic art, were classified as UNESCO World Heritage. They represent hunting scenes, mammoths, deer and abstract signs.
THINGS TO SEE IN ALQUEZAR DURING
When arriving by car in Alquezar, you have to park in the car parks located at the very top of the village. The classic walk begins with a breathtaking panoramic view of the whole of Alquezar. We instantly notice a mix of influences, the Middle Ages, Arab and Baroque architecture. Several paths are possible by taking stairs which plunge between the traditionally restored houses.
Small streets of Alquezar
The best advice is to go a little randomly from its streets which wind between stone, wooden, brick and adobe houses. It’s easy to get lost in this maze of alleys but you have to slow down and pay attention to the details: the large wooden doors are worked with razor-sharp precision, the gutters are sometimes shaped like dragons, wild boars’ legs are nailed below the entrances to houses to bring good luck. Numerous passages under porticos, called Callizos, provide protection from the summer heat. All the streets, or almost all, lead to the central square.
Plaza Mayor
The old Plaza Mayor renamed Mestre Rafael Ayerbe, a famous priest, is small but has character. It is lined with disparate arcades which made it possible to go to the market on bad weather days. The facades of the houses are very elaborate with small aesthetic balconies.
Visit to the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Mayor
By taking the path which zig zags up to the old fortified castle, you come across the immense entrance to the fortified city (entrance fee). Inside, there is a temple which houses a very pretty altarpiece, a pretty nave, a starry vault, paintings, and a 17th century organ. Lovers of old stones and history will definitely love the small trapezoidal cloister with beautiful frescoes; while lovers of natural landscapes will be attracted by the striking view of the village and the entire Sierra de Guara.
Short hike on the footbridges above the Rio Vero
Before going up to the Santa Maria collegiate church, a path with stairs plunges into the canyon (entrance fee). We quickly reach the Rio Vero to continue the walk on metal footbridges, sometimes suspended several tens of meters from the turquoise waters of the Rio Vero. The course is well secured and accessible to families with children. Before returning to the village, the route arrives at a superb viewpoint revealing a unique view of the Rio Vero canyon.